Are you looking to find more information on how to hike Half Dome? I’m sharing everything there is to know in my guide below, including how to get a permit, what to pack, and my experience tackling this iconic hike.
One word to describe Half Dome? Mesmerizing. From the moment you drive into Yosemite National Park and lay your eyes on El Capitan with Half Dome in the distance, you will instantly have goosebumps. Between the valley floor to the mountain peaks, Yosemite is an absolutely remarkable park. The hike to Half Dome is one of the National Park Service’s most sought after experiences. There are a few things you must know before embarking on this strenuous adventure and I’m detailing all of it.
About Half Dome
Half Dome is the icon of Yosemite National Park. Most people can point out Yosemite in any photo when the massive granite rock is in the frame. The summit reaches 8,800 feet above sea level and roughly 5,000 feet above the valley floor. There are actually a few other notable “domes” around the park, but what makes Half Dome special is from the name itself. It’s as if the dome was cut in half perfectly.
To keep its history short and sweet, it is said that when a magma chamber cooled and crystallized in the ground millions of years ago, uplift exposed the large piece of granite. Over time, erosion and exfoliation rounded out the rock into a dome shape. Weathering and glaciation cut the rock to expose the steep face we admire today.
Although deemed inaccessible in the 1860s, a man named George Anderson summited Half Dome for the first time in 1875. During his climb, Anderson created the route where the infamous cables would be installed by the Sierra Club in 1920 and rebuilt by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in 1934. In 2010, a permit system was put in place by the National Park Service (NPS) to only allow a certain number of people to summit Half Dome each day.
Each year, thousands of people hike up to the summit, which includes the final 400 foot stretch up the cables. There are beautiful stops along the way including waterfalls, dense forest, rivers, and more. Making it up to the base of the cables is reward enough with panoramic views of the entire park. Spoiler: I was one of those people who did in fact turn around on the cables and not make it to the top, but Chris did! I share my experience on the cables towards the end of this post.
Best Time to Hike Half Dome
Although you can technically climb Half Dome year-round, the cables are not always up. They are typically put up around Memorial Day in May and are taken down around Columbus Day in October, based on conditions at those times. You’ll read and hear about people summiting Half Dome when the cables are down (yikes!), but this is not that kind of guide!
First things first, a permit is needed to access the cables (which I talk more about below). Permits are generally easier to get on week-days and during the months of September and October. If you’re looking to avoid heavy crowds, you will want to apply for a permit during these times. Half Dome is a popular hike though, so you will see at least some level of crowd no matter when you go.
Waterfalls
Yosemite National Park is known for epic waterfalls. Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall are two beautiful waterfalls found along the Half Dome hike. The falls tend to be stronger from late spring to early summer throughout the park. With less snow melt and rain, some waterfalls in the park become weaker or completely dry up into late summer and early fall. We hiked in mid-September and although the waterfalls were not as powerful, they were still breathtaking.
Wildfires
Fires are becoming more common on the West Coast due to the hot and dry weather. Wildfire season typically begins around July and August and lasts through the fall. Smoke will poor into the valley in the morning, but typically burns off in the afternoon. If the fires are in the park or close enough to it, the smoke may linger throughout the day. During our visit, the fires were pretty active, but we were lucky enough to have a few completely clear days.
Even with all of your planning, you could still end up securing a permit, traveling to Yosemite, and waking up the morning of your hike to find the weather is not what you had hoped it would be. It is strongly recommended to avoid hiking on days where there are storm clouds in the area. Remember that on the cables, there is no coverage to protect you from rain, snow, and lightning.
Half Dome Lottery System
As mentioned above, anyone who wants to summit Half Dome will need a permit to access the cables. There are two different ways to secure a permit: apply during the preseason lottery or daily lottery.
Preseason Lottery: The preseason lottery takes place in March each year. From March 1 through March 31, prospective hikers can apply for a permit by selecting up to six different dates for their group. Each person in your group can individually apply, so you have a higher chance to win a permit. The NPS only awards enough permits for the amount of people you apply for, so make sure to account for everyone. Notifications are sent out mid-April to let you know if you’ve been awarded a permit or not and you have a few weeks to either accept or decline. I applied for two dates in June, August, and September, and was awarded a Friday in September. Any permits not accepted in the preseason lottery will go to the daily lottery.
Daily Lottery: The daily lottery takes place each day of the season. Prospective hikers can apply for a permit two days in advance of the desired hiking date. The application opens at midnight and closes at 4pm. Notifications are sent out the evening of the application date.
FAQ: Are you able to use your permit another day if there is bad weather, park closure, etc.? Unfortunately, the NPS does not allow permits to be used any day other than the date listed on the permit… even in cases of bad weather, park closures, etc. Prospective hikers can apply for another permit in the daily lottery.
Getting to Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park is located on the eastern side of California. The park spans across 1,200 square miles of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Although the park is at least a couple hours from any airport, it is pretty accessible from wherever you are traveling from late spring through early fall. During the winter months, road closures are not uncommon so it might cause you to drive a longer way around. We flew into San Francisco, spent the morning exploring the city, and drove to Yosemite later than evening.
Closest International Airports:
All driving times are based on driving to Yosemite Valley.
- Fresno, CA ~ 2 hours and 30 minutes
- Oakland, CA ~ 3 hours and 30 minutes
- Sacramento, CA ~ 3 hours and 30 minutes
- San Jose, CA ~ 4 hours
- San Francisco, CA ~ 4 hours and 30 minutes
Planning Your Route
There are a few different ways to reach the summit of Half Dome and you may combine a few different trails to get there. The route can either be done as a day hike, which is what we did, or a multi-day hike. Little Yosemite Valley Campground is located at the top of Nevada Fall and is a popular stopping point for multi-day hikers. If you plan to camp, you must secure a permit for the day you will access the cables.
From Happy Isles:
The John Muir Trail (JMT) is where most hikers begin. The trailhead is located off of the Happy Isles Bridge in Yosemite Valley. There is plenty of parking about a half mile down the road in the Yosemite Valley Trailhead Parking Lot. Once you reach the Vernal Fall Footbridge, the trail splits into two different routes. The John Muir Trail continues to the right and the Mist Trail begins to the left. The Mist Trail brings you up a steep granite stairway to the top of Vernal Fall and continues up rocky switchbacks to the top of Nevada Fall. The JMT is a mile longer winding up several switchbacks along a dirt trail, but is not as steep and avoids the granite stairway. Hikers can join the Mist Trail from the JMT at the top of Vernal Fall from Clark Point or can continue to Little Yosemite Valley.
From Glacier Point:
The Panorama Trail is a popular day hike in Yosemite National Park. Starting from Glacier Point, a section of the trail intersects with the route to Half Dome at the top of Nevada Fall. There are several impressive highlights along this trail, like Illilouette Falls and Panorama Cliff. It’s important to note that with the descent into the Illilouette Gorge, the total elevation gain with summiting Half Dome will be greater than starting from Happy Isles.
From Tioga Road:
There are a couple trailheads along Tioga Road that access the Half Dome route: Sunrise Lakes Trailhead from Tenaya Lake and Cathedral Lakes from Tuolumne Meadows. These trails are popular for backpackers as they are longer and pass a few backcountry campsites.
What to Pack for Half Dome
Half Dome is a very long and strenuous day hike. How you prepare and what you bring (or forget to bring), can either make or break your hiking experience. You can find my packing list below that is based off of my experience hiking Half Dome in one day.
Gear:
- Backpack: A backpack of some sort is non-negotiable. Since you will be hiking for most of the day, you will need to be able to carry your essentials. We opted for backpacks with built-in hydration systems since having water is so vital on this journey. It will also help to find a backpack with a padded hip belt and comfortable straps to evenly distribute the weight.
- Boots/Shoes: Any hiker can admit that their choice in footwear is easily one of the most important decisions to make. The route to Half Dome is steep, rocky, and can be wet. You will want a shoe that has good grip, will provide extra traction, and is broken in. Never hike a strenuous trail in new boots.
- Trekking Poles: I did not realize how much having trekking poles would help me both on the way up and the way down. They helped with balance and relieved stress on my joints while descending.
- Working Gloves: You will want a pair of gloves with grip for the cables. There are a ton of loose gloves people leave at the bottom of the cables, but I personally liked having my own that I knew would fit and were not used.
- Headlamp/Flashlight: We started the hike at 4am and it was pitch black. Having a headlamp helped to see where we were going and also gave some peace of mind for safety. Bring extra batteries incase your lamp’s battery runs out.
Essentials:
- First-Aid Kit: A first-aid kit is necessary on any hike. A typical kit includes bandaids, wipes, gauze, bacterial/sting ointments, medical tape, tweezers, safety pins, hand warmers, tums, and pain relief medications. We also made sure to have a package of mole skin in our kit, incase we felt any blisters coming on. I recommend bringing a whistle, multi-tool, and butane lighter as well in your kit.
- Navigation: It’s always a good idea to pack a compass and paper maps/guides. I recommend downloading offline maps to your phone, but not to rely solely on it, should it die or break or you lose it. The route to Half Dome is heavily trafficked, but you should always bring a map with you incase you get lost.
- Toiletry Pouch: Some key items to include here are hand sanitizer, sunscreen, chapstick, bug spray, tissues, and feminine products. If you wear contacts, be sure to pack an extra pair. We also brought a small role a toilet paper and a small trash bag.
- Permit/ID: Bring a paper copy of your permit and a form of identification.
Food/Water:
- Food/Snacks: It’s important to pack food that will give you energy. Some great options are granola bars, dried fruit, nuts, jerky, goldfish, and chocolate. We packed 5-6 small snacks each. We also made sandwiches for lunch that didn’t take up too much space. Make sure to also pack some form of electrolytes. I liked popping a couple chews after each snack.
- Water: The recommended amount of water to bring on your Half Dome hike is 4 liters per person. Our backpacks had a hydration system that measured 3 liters each. We clipped an additional pouch onto our backpacks to be able to fill up when we could.
- Filtration System: We also brought a life straw and filtration tablets incase we needed more water. There are a few places to fill up along the route that I detail below.
Clothing/Accessories:
I recommend wearing layers that are lightweight, will keep you warm and dry, and can easily be removed. It’s important to stick to moisture-wicking materials and avoid cotton to decrease risk of potential hypothermia. It most likely won’t get too cold during your hike since the cables are only up from May – October, but you will most likely be starting your hike before the sun comes up so it will help to dress warm and remove layers as needed.
- Puffy Jacket: This is lightweight, will keep you warm, and protect you from the wind.
- Top: Either a t-shirt or tank top. If you wear a long-sleeve, make sure you have something on underneath incase you get too warm.
- Bottom: Either hiking pants, shorts, or athletic leggings. I personally always opt for leggings.
- Socks: Investing in a couple good pairs of hiking socks are key. Bring two pairs incase you sweat through one or your first pair rips.
- Hat or Cap: Mostly to keep the sun out of your face.
- Sunglasses: With UV protection.
- Additional Items: Rain jacket or poncho, bathing suit.
Our Experience
Leave No Trace: There are 7 principles you should know before setting out on any adventure. This includes planning ahead, traveling along durable surfaces, disposing of waste, leaving what you find, minimizing the impact of your campfire, respecting wildlife, and being considerate to those who are also enjoying the space.
2:00am – Evergreen Lodge to Yosemite Valley Trailhead Parking Lot
We set our alarms for 2:00am to make sure we had plenty of time to wake up, finish packing our backpacks, mentally prepare for the journey ahead, and drive to the trailhead to begin our hike. I knew that it would take us quite a bit of time getting up to the cables and didn’t want to feel rushed. We set aside some water and a small bite to eat for the drive to start getting our energy up.
Our hotel, Evergreen Lodge, was located in the Hetch Hetchy area of the park, so we had a quite a bit of a drive. Surely you can stay closer to the trailhead in Yosemite Valley, but we were so impressed with this lodge and decided to stay there. I highly recommend!
4:00am – John Muir Trail to Vernal Fall Footbridge
When you park at the Yosemite Valley Trailhead Parking Lot, it’s about half a mile along Happy Isle Loop Road to the trailhead. This was the first moment that felt pretty surreal for me. I just kept thinking to myself how crazy it was that after all of this planning, we had officially started our journey to Half Dome… in Yosemite National Park… in the pitch black… at 4am! Crazy!
Once you cross over the Merced River, you will arrive at the trailhead for the John Muir Trail and Mist Trail. The hike to the Vernal Fall Footbridge is 1.1 miles along the Merced River. This is an easy and fully paved segment with about 550 feet of elevation gain. It’s the perfect start to get your blood flowing before a serious incline. There is a water station and fully equipped restrooms across the bridge. From there, you can either go to the left up the Mist Trail or to the right up the John Muir Trail. We decided to ascend via the Mist Trail.
5:00am – Mist Trail to the top of Nevada Fall
The Mist Trail is only a segment of the route to Half Dome, but it is a famous trail itself. Starting early will help you avoid the crowds of people that are only hiking to the waterfalls. The trail begins with 0.6 miles of granite steps and 400 feet of elevation gain alongside Vernal Fall. Although it was dark, we were able to slightly see the waterfall and take some cool pictures with night mode on our iPhones. Surprisingly, we didn’t get as wet as I had read we would, but Vernal Fall was also not as powerful as it is earlier in the season.
The top of Vernal Fall is a great place to rest and use the bathroom (outhouse). We found a spot near the Emerald Pool to stretch, dig in to one of our snacks, and catch our breath before continuing on to the top of Nevada Fall. At this point, the sun was starting to rise and we were finally able to turn those headlamps off and see the epic views in the distance. The segment to the top of Nevada Fall is a lot more difficult than getting to the top of Vernal Fall. The trail brings you up 1.2 miles and 1,000 feet of elevation along rocky switchbacks to the top of the waterfall.
7:00am – Little Yosemite Valley
Reaching the top of Nevada Fall is a huge accomplishment and the next segment will be a much needed reset. In full transparency, I was pretty much exhausted at this point and very much doubting my ability to get to the top. Walking through Little Yosemite Valley was my saving grace.
Before heading down into Little Yosemite Valley, there is an outhouse located at the top of Nevada Fall if needed. I recommend making a quick detour back towards the John Muir Trail to take a seat along the river, near the top of the waterfall. Then, continue your journey to Half Dome. This segment through the valley is 1.2 miles and about 150 feet of elevation gain. This is also the last place to fill up on water, so make sure you have enough to get up to the summit and back down to this area. There is also another bathroom located at Little Yosemite Valley Campground.
8:30am – Little Yosemite Valley to Sub Dome
We took a much needed break in Little Yosemite Valley because the next few segments are the most grueling of them all. From the valley, the trail quickly ascends 1,800 feet of elevation over 2.9 miles and dozens of switchbacks. This part of the route winds through the forest, but you will start to see Half Dome peaking out between the trees little by little. As you get closer to Sub Dome, the view is absolutely breathtaking. We stopped a few times and veered slightly off trail to get out of the trees and take in the epic view of Yosemite Valley below and Tioga Road in the distance. A true reward for how far we had come already!
At this point, you start to notice the people you’ve been hiking alongside for the past 4 hours or so. We would hike up a bit, stop and take a break, and then another group would hike up a bit, and stop to take a break. Some would make jokes and others would offer words of encouragement. That became my favorite part. It felt like we were going to conquer this together.
10:30am – Sub Dome to the Half Dome Cables + Permit Check
When you reach the starting point of Sub Dome, this is where a park ranger will be sitting to check your permit. They say you need to have your permit printed out and the person whose name is on the permit needs to be there with a form of identification. In full transparency, there was no one there to check our permit! I’m not sure if it was because it was later into the season or maybe there were not a huge number of people summiting Half Dome that day… but we could see some people got lucky hiking up to this point hoping they could somehow access the cables.
Sub Dome itself is said to be more physically daunting than Half Dome. Just when you feel great about making it this far, you then have to make it up more rapid switchbacks.. but this time they are 18 inch granite steps over another 500 feet of elevation gain. There is no coverage on this part of the route, so make sure to reapply your sunscreen and stay hydrated.
12:00pm – Half Dome Cables
Finally… after all of the planning and strenuous hiking, it was time to get on the cables and officially summit Half Dome. It goes without saying, but it’s important to remember that everyone has a different experience on this last stretch. If you have read this entire post from the top, you know that I actually did not make it all the way up the cables, but Chris did!!
Once we made it over Sub Dome, that first look at the cables up close was nerving. We sat for a few minutes just looking at the other hikers start their climb and slowly move higher and higher until they disappeared over the dome. I went back and forth asking myself if I was mentally and physically prepared for the last 400 feet of elevation gain. We saw several people start climbing and turn back around, or change their mind before they even began. I thought the physical aspect would be more of a hurdle for me. I had jumped out of planes, off of bridges, and done some scary sh*t so what was one more adventure? We traveled all the way here for this and so many people conquer it every day.
Getting on the Cables
Eventually, I mustered up the courage to secure my trekking poles, put my gloves on, and get on the cables. I decided to go first, feeling safer that Chris was behind me. One foot in front of the other, I climbed from one wooden board to the next pretty much gripping the cables with all of my strength.
Now… I’m 4 foot 9… and those cables were a lot taller than I thought they would be. About 30% of the way up (if I’m being generous), I glanced over at the steep drop off to my right and just knew that I was not going to finish this. I felt completely exposed. Somehow, I took a few more steps feeling like I could not give up just yet until I looked forward and saw a gap of about 15 feet between the wooden board I was standing right in front of and the next one I needed to get to. Then… I cried (haha!).
Looking back, I just laugh it off. 17 year old me would have done it no problem, but 27 year old me was too scared. So we turned back around. After sitting down and finishing my crying session, I knew I had to encourage Chris who was so comforting to go back up on the cables and make it to the top for the both of us and I would be fine waiting for him down at the bottom. Of course, he made it up no problem! I enjoyed watching him with my binoculars alongside the other people who didn’t make it up. A special kind of crew I found! At some point, I will convince Chris to write a small blurb about his experience conquering those cables.
2:00pm – Descend into Yosemite Valley
Making it up to the top is only half the battle. Now it was time to descend 5,000 feet back into Yosemite Valley. Heading back down was pretty rough on the body and I was so thankful I brought trekking poles. You’ll go the same way you came up – down Sub Dome and through Little Yosemite Valley until you reach the top of Nevada Fall. From this point, you can either head down the rocky switchbacks alongside Nevada Fall via the Mist Trail or head over the waterfall via the John Muir Trail. We decided to take the Mist Trail because we wanted to see the waterfalls in the daylight.
Most hikers will opt for the John Muir Trail since it is the “easier” way down. Looking back, I would have taken the JMT to Clark Point since we had already seen Nevada Fall as the sun was rising. From there, I would have hiked towards the Mist Trail to see Vernal Fall in the daylight and continue down to Happy Isles.
Overall, hiking up to Half Dome is truly a bucket list experience. Would I do it again? Probably not (haha!), but it’s such an epic story to tell. Yosemite is such a treasure and there are one-of-a-kind hikes all over the park. I would absolutely hike back up to Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall earlier in the season to see the waterfalls in their most powerful form. I would also love to come back to the park and journey up to Clouds Rest. Have you ever hiked up to Half Dome or this hike on your bucket list? I’d love to hear your tips on how to hike Half Dome!
HAPPY EXPLORING!
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